Café Clement, London WC2: ‘Turns out it’s really rather good’ – restaurant review

Café Clement London WC2 Review: A Quiet Triumph

Wanderstayfinder.com – Café Clement London WC2 opened its doors inside the brand-new St Clement Hotel on 180 The Thames in June 2026, and within days the terrace was crowded with Hollywood faces, radio hosts, and a steady stream of Irish celebrities. The spectacle was loud. What happens after the cameras pack up and the complimentary lunch ends? That is the question worth answering, and the answer — drawn from a visit well past the opening-week frenzy — is that the kitchen delivers considerably more than the initial spectacle implied.

Setting the Scene

Nick Jones, the entrepreneur who scaled Soho House into a global hospitality brand, has spent decades perfecting the mechanics of restaurant spectacle. His latest property occupies a stretch of the river that is only now coalescing into a credible dining destination. The hotel will not reach full operation until early autumn, at which point a rooftop venue called Lunette — led by chef Florence Knight and positioned to command some of London’s most dramatic skyline views — will join the programme. Until then, the all-day dining room carries the entire weight of the property’s food-and-drink reputation.

The interior strikes a balance between polish and ease: crisp white linen tablecloths, vintage Cassina chairs, and an open kitchen visible through ornate glass screens. A south-facing terrace invites long, sun-soaked afternoons, while a garden at the rear offers a quieter retreat. Staff numbers hover around 345, and the service carries the energy of people selected as much for personality as for technical competence. It is a room designed for lingering, not for the rapid turnover of a lunchtime pit-stop.

The Kitchen and What Lands

At the pass stands Danny Bohan, a chef whose career has been anchored for more than two decades at the River Cafe, where he most recently served as head chef alongside Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers — two names that send a particular shiver through the London food scene. His training in that kitchen, famous for its seasonal, produce-driven approach, is evident in the way the menu privileges ingredient quality over decorative excess. The offering is broadly European in orientation: a refined, all-day bistro that moves from eggs and carpaccio through casseroles and grills to pastas and, finally, to chocolate-laden desserts.

The eggs mayonnaise arrives jammy and generously filled, the mayonnaise carrying a distinctly earthy, mustard-forward note that never tips into something sickly. Notably, the plate is served starkly — no trout roe, no caviar, no garnish theatre. The effect is that the egg itself becomes the event, and the kitchen’s willingness to spend on exceptional produce rather than on edible decoration becomes immediately apparent.

The cheese soufflé is, frankly, stunning: upright, luscious, and deeply, unapologetically cheesy. The steak tartare arrives free-form across the plate, sharply pickled and well-seasoned, accompanied by carta di musica Sardinian flatbread. Sea bass carpaccio is arranged with a simplicity that borders on the beautiful, balancing sweetness and acidity in precisely calibrated proportions.

A side of summer beetroots, priced at £7, is gorgeous in the most literal sense: sweet, plump, properly baked, and buttery. It raises the question of why roasted beets do not appear more routinely on side menus across the city.

The fish casserole, by contrast, is thin and pale — a bouillabaisse in search of a meaning. A scattering of mussels, a single piece of fish, and not much else fills the bowl. It is, admittedly, excellent for anyone watching their carbohydrate intake. The crinkle-cut chips, or retro potato wedges, similarly fail to justify their caloric cost.

The £18 chocolate mousse for two arrives with the dense, unstructured energy of a brownie and the capacity to induce a genuine sugar high. Neither of those descriptors is a quibble. A fresh, wobbly slice of custard tart, draped in a mush of sweet strawberries and additional custard, rounds out the dessert offering with quiet delight.

Practical Details and FAQ

Where is it? Café Clement sits inside the St Clement Hotel at 180 The Thames, London WC2, a short walk from the South Bank. The south-facing terrace and rear garden extend the dining experience well beyond the main room.

What should I expect price-wise? Bohan’s former home, the River Cafe, lists starters at £51, pastas at £46, and mains at £69. The bistro here sits in a different register — accessible enough for a weekday lunch, indulgent enough for a celebratory dinner. Sharing desserts are sized for two, and the cocktail menu features cosmos among other classics.

Is it suitable for families or long stays? The room is designed for lingering. The all-day format means breakfast, lunch, and dinner flow seamlessly, and the garden at the rear provides a quieter space for those who need a break from the terrace buzz. Staff numbers around 345 ensure service remains attentive even at peak times.

What is coming next? The rooftop venue Lunette, helmed by chef Florence Knight, is expected to open in early autumn 2026 once the hotel reaches full operation. Until then, the ground-floor dining room carries the full weight of the property’s culinary identity.