On the road with the kids: a family driving holiday in Spain and France
On the Road with the Kids: A Family Driving Holiday in Spain and France
On the road with the kids - Day four of our cross-border road adventure brought the realization that motherhood and spontaneity are not always compatible. The morning mist clung to our skin, seeping into our clothes and dampening our spirits as we trudged uphill, my six-year-old daughter’s face etched with determination as she pushed her bicycle through the forested path. A blue marker on Google Maps had led us here, yet the map’s certainty felt dubious. “See! I told you! We’re having an adventure,” I insisted, forcing a grin, while she muttered, “This is just pushing your bike up a big hill.”
The Challenge of Balancing Freedom and Structure
Adventure, I mused, is a word that carries a certain magic—especially when you’re young and the world feels like an endless playground. But with two children and the pressure of a summer vacation, even the most thrilling routes can feel like a test of endurance. Our goal was to retrace a memory from my 20s, when I had crisscrossed France in a borrowed Peugeot with a then-boyfriend, camping under starry skies and chasing dolphins on the open sea. That trip had been a blur of freedom and discovery, yet this time, the equation was different.
Our partner, who had always preferred the comfort of hotels over the chaos of campsites, was a reluctant ally in this endeavor. The kids, too, still recall the grimy toilets of their first campsite with a shudder. So how do you blend the spontaneity of a road trip with the predictability of family life? The answer, we decided, lay in a hybrid approach: combining home swaps with upscale camping to keep the journey flexible without sacrificing comfort.
The Ferry Ride: A Serene Beginning
Our adventure began with a two-night ferry journey from Portsmouth to Bilbao, a route that offered a peaceful contrast to the rugged mountain paths ahead. On board the Galicia, a Brittany Ferries vessel, we spent hours lounging in the first-class Commodore lounge, sipping wine and reading books. The buffet was a never-ending feast, and the lounge itself became a sanctuary—a far cry from the cramped cabins of our earlier travels. While the price of a first-class ticket was steep (£79 per person), the experience justified it, as the endless food and calm atmosphere made the crossing feel like a vacation within a vacation.
Upon arrival in Bilbao, we were met by the city’s annual Aste Nagusia festival, which had just begun. The streets buzzed with energy, and the air was thick with the scent of traditional Basque cuisine. After a leisurely walk through the Guggenheim Museum, which remains one of Europe’s most captivating modern art spaces, we found ourselves in the heart of Casco Viejo, where the Plaza Nueva overflowed with locals in blue-and-white scarves, clinking glasses of cider and reveling in the vibrant atmosphere. It was a stark reminder of how the Basques have mastered the art of celebration.
“This is just pushing your bike up a big hill,”
—a comment that echoed through the mist as we navigated the mountainous terrain. Our first stop in the small village of Berastegi, located 25 minutes from San Sebastián, was arranged via Home Exchange, a home-swapping platform that had become a cornerstone of our travel strategy. Since 2022, we’ve saved thousands on lodging, uncovering hidden gems in Spain, France, Denmark, and the UK. The hosts’ recommendations often led us to places we’d never have discovered on our own, such as Casa Julian in Tolosa, where a steak so tender and flavorful left us speechless. “A devastating steak, frankly,” I later remarked, though I’d gladly trade my car for a return visit.
From Berastegi to Pamplona: A Blend of Culture and Comfort
Staying in Berastegi allowed us to explore nearby Pamplona, a 40-minute drive away. There, we sipped on rich, unctuous hot chocolate at Café Iruña, a historic spot once frequented by Hemingway. The city’s most famous attraction, the running of the bulls, was explained with a mix of awe and grim fascination, though we opted for a quieter afternoon in the city’s labyrinthine streets. The money saved on accommodation meant we could afford a night in a hotel in San Sebastián, where we dined, strolled along the beach, and even took a dip in the sea. The city’s claim to host the world’s highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants felt trivial when paired with a glass of cold txakoli and a stuffed txangurro (spider crab) that was nearly too good to finish.
As we ventured north, the roads became narrower, the forests denser, and the pace more deliberate. The journey from Bilbao to Saint-Malo was not just physical but also a test of patience, with the kids oscillating between excitement and exhaustion. Yet, the rewards of each destination were worth the effort. From the rugged beauty of Gipuzkoa’s mountains to the sun-drenched coastal towns of France, every stop seemed to weave a new thread into our shared story.
France: A New Chapter on the Road
After weeks in Spain, the transition to France felt like a fresh start. The rolling hills of the Pyrenees and the coastal charm of Saint-Malo offered a different kind of adventure—one that was more about soaking in the culture than conquering the landscape. We spent time in Montreuil, a town with a historic amusement park that had been operating since 1909. The rides, though modest, brought a smile to the kids’ faces, and the promise of a European coastline awaited us just beyond the next bend.
Our route was dotted with kid-friendly attractions: the cool aquarium in San Sebastián, which housed axolotls, and the 113-year-old Monte Igueldo park, where we watched the sun dip below the horizon as the kids giggled on the swings. These moments, though seemingly simple, became highlights of our trip. The balance between structure and spontaneity was delicate, but with careful planning and a willingness to embrace the unexpected, we found a rhythm that worked.
By the time we reached Saint-Malo, the initial fatigue had given way to a deeper appreciation for the journey. The coastal town, with its medieval walls and seafront promenades, offered a serene conclusion to our three-week odyssey. As we parked the car and stepped onto the cobbled streets, I couldn’t help but reflect on how far we’d come—both in distance and in understanding what makes a family road trip truly memorable.
Adventure, I realized, isn’t just about the destination or the challenges faced along the way. It’s about the shared moments, the quiet triumphs, and the way each destination adds its own unique flavor to the story. Even when the mist was thick and the hills seemed endless, the journey had become more than a trip—it was a testament to the resilience and joy of family life on the road.