‘Here I can live a good life’: inside the Syrian commune where men are banned

Women's Sanctuary in the Syrian Desert: Life Within Jinwar

Here I can live a good - At the threshold of Jinwar, a mother stands vigilant, her rifle resting on one shoulder while she clutches a walkie-talkie in her hand. This women-only settlement, nestled in the arid terrain of northeastern Syria, presents a striking contrast to its surroundings. Approximately thirty dwellings constructed from mud brick spread across the landscape, surrounded by vibrant gardens bursting with blossoms, produce, and fruit-bearing trees. Located near the urban center of Qamishli, this community has flourished since its establishment in 2018 as a haven for women seeking liberation from conflict and oppression.

Residents hail from diverse backgrounds—Kurds, Arabs, and Yazidis all call Jinwar home. Some arrived following the tragic loss of their spouses to Islamic State forces, while others fled relationships marked by domestic abuse in pursuit of autonomy. The commune characterizes itself as an environment where women may embrace independence alongside other women and children, whether they choose to remain unmarried or have experienced widowhood or familial violence.

A Self-Sustaining Community

Within these boundaries, roughly twenty-five women reside together with their offspring and livestock, which includes peacocks, chickens, sheep, and cattle. The community operates its own educational institution and has constructed numerous residences using traditional building methods that combine earth, water, and straw into bricks. Agricultural activities form a cornerstone of daily life, with residents cultivating aubergines, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, onions, and garlic for their own consumption.

While men from outside may enter the settlement for visits, they are prohibited from residing there or spending the night. The commune emerged during the Syrian civil war as a direct response to the multifaceted challenges confronting women in the region, including discrimination and various forms of violence. Its name derives from Kurdish terminology: "jin" meaning woman, and "war" signifying home, land, or place—collectively translating to "women's space."

Documenting Female Leadership

Photographer Matteo Trevisan captured the essence of Jinwar through his lens as part of an extensive visual project examining female-led communities throughout northeastern Syria. His collection extends beyond Jinwar to encompass women from Jarudi, an ecological settlement where women hold leadership positions while men remain welcome residents. Additional subjects include members of HPC-Jin, the women's civil defence committees operating in Qamishli, alongside female professionals engaged within regional environmental organizations.

"Here I found myself – my true self," Welat reflected upon discovering the commune.

Welat, aged fifty-five, joined the settlement slightly more than twelve months ago following her separation from her husband. "Life wasn't going well," she explained. "I could barely get by." Upon learning of the women-only village, she made the decision to visit. Now she dedicates her mornings to Kurdish-language instruction before rotating through watch duties at the entrance.

"The mothers work side by side. The relationships among women are beautiful. The psychological environment is good, the spirit very high."

Work responsibilities distribute evenly among residents, while continuous visitor traffic facilitates commerce and dialogue. "Many guests come through. There's a lot of exchange and activity," Welat observed. The health centre, known as Şîfa Jin or "Healing of Women," serves as another vital community resource where medicinal plants are prepared and stored.

Voices of Resilience

Nujîn Mihemed, now fifty-seven, arrived at Jinwar four and a half years ago following her husband's passing. Previously living alone near al-Dirbasiyah while managing health difficulties, friends encouraged her relocation to the commune. "I suffered a great deal. I endured a lot of hardship. Both because of so-called 'morality' and because of society," Mihemed recounted. "Our society has no mercy. Even within my own family: not my mother and father, but my brothers and sisters – they oppressed me."

Today, Mihemed contributes to various communal tasks ranging from bread baking to security rotations. The settlement encompasses a bakery, modest village shop, medical facility, and educational center. "We are each different from one another, but we're all like one household," she expressed.

"Here I can live a good life," Welat affirmed. "I want all the mothers of the world to be aware of their own strength. If they have strength, they have freedom."

For both women, Jinwar provides something difficult to locate elsewhere throughout Syria: genuine security and tranquility. "Out there, life is harder," Welat noted. "Here it's different. Here I can find myself."