Jess Cartner-Morley on fashion: flip-flops are once again having a fashion moment. But please tread carefully
Flip-Flops Return to Fashion: A Delicate Step Into Style
From Beach Essential to Runway Controversy
Jess Cartner Morley on fashion - Summer's most beloved footwear has arrived once more, though not without stirring considerable conversation. The humble flip-flop, that quintessential warm-weather companion, is experiencing a resurgence that has divided opinion across multiple fronts. While the Dalai Lama has been spotted in them and surfers consider them indispensable, their emergence as a legitimate fashion statement has prompted raised eyebrows everywhere.
These rubber sandals serve as the ultimate utility item—transcending mere fashion to become something more fundamental. They inhabit the space between casual and essential, much like blue jeans or canvas tote bags. Yet when they venture beyond their traditional domain, when they transition from back-door footwear to public-facing style, they inevitably provoke reaction. Every summer heatwave brings renewed debate about their acceptability in professional environments, a discussion that somehow never reaches resolution.
The Price of Controversy
Recent incidents have amplified the flip-flop conversation considerably. Jennifer Lawrence's 2023 Cannes appearance in flip-flops beneath her Dior gown generated substantial criticism regarding the festival's elegant footwear expectations. Meanwhile, the luxury market has responded with increasingly expensive offerings that challenge conventional pricing boundaries.
The price tag of this summer's high-fashion flip-flops has sparked outrage, even though you can't buy much more than a bag charm from most luxury brands for under a grand these days.
Phoebe Philo's suede platform pair commands £690, while The Row offers a minimal black leather version with contrast stitching for £800. These figures seem extraordinary to many, yet they reflect broader trends in luxury pricing.
Understanding the Divide
Two distinct concerns emerge when examining flip-flop resistance. The first centers on respect and social hierarchy. The casual nature of flip-flops can trigger anxiety about declining standards—what some perceive as a slippery slope from beach-appropriate footwear to putting your feet on train seats while playing music aloud.
The second concern proves more personal and visceral. Many individuals harbor strong opinions about feet, whether rooted in general squeamishness, particular appreciation, or specific grooming expectations. Chipped nail polish horrifies some, while dried heels represent an unforgivable sin to others.
A Historical Perspective
The flip-flop's previous fashion moment occurred during the early 2000s, dominated by Brazilian Havaianas. The image of white Havaianas paired with denim cut-offs captured something distinctly Kate Moss—smoking outside Ibiza airport with effortless cool. However, the following decade witnessed the rise of the slider, that chunky plastic mule sandal that became the preferred choice for athleisure and festival culture.
Sliders offered practical advantages with their snappable toe posts, making them superior shower footwear compared to traditional flip-flops. As Glastonbury culture flourished, they became standard festival kit. The eventual Y2K revival made the flip-flop's return almost inevitable.
The New Flip-Flop Aesthetic
This iteration arrives under luxury minimalism's influence. Thick soles and padded straps create substantial proportions, while elevated fabrics—satin, leather, and suede—replace casual plastics. The color palette favors sophisticated tones: black, chocolate brown, and butter yellow rather than tropical brightness.
This refined version politely requests recognition as a "thong sandal," elevating its status through nomenclature alone.
The Copenhagen Method
Perhaps more crucial than selecting the appropriate flip-flop is wearing them correctly. The Copenhagen approach treats them as minimalist sandals rather than beach accessories. Oversized trousers grazing the pavement, crisp poplin shirts, elegant slip dresses, and chic coordinated sets all pair beautifully with this footwear.
Shell necklaces and sarongs have no place here, nor does the piña colada aesthetic. When temperatures rise, fully enclosed shoes feel and appear incorrect. Flip-flops with floor-kissing trousers allow air circulation while revealing just enough skin to solve both comfort and style concerns simultaneously.
With shorter hemlines, heavy shoes prove too cumbersome, yet strappy sandals can appear overly formal. The flip-flop bridges this gap, enabling you to look as cool as you feel.
Neither side truly conquers the flip-flop debate, and perhaps that is its greatest strength. Truly exceptional fashion items rarely achieve universal admiration. They are loved by some, despised by others, and impossible to overlook. The flip-flop has spent decades demonstrating its belonging in this category. Whether it deserves an office place remains entirely debatable.
Styling: Melanie Wilkinson. Styling assistant: Charlotte Gornall. Model: Maria Diaz at Milk. Hair and makeup: [as credited in original]