From camel coats to guochao: Max Mara woos China’s luxury brand consumers
From camel coats to guochao: Max Mara woos China’s luxury brand consumers
From camel coats to guochao - Shanghai, the city that never sits down, has become the ideal stage for Max Mara’s 75th anniversary celebrations. For Ian Griffiths, the British designer at the helm of the brand, the choice was deliberate. “Max Mara is a product for metropolitan women, and it would be patronising to assume that a metropolitan wardrobe should be western-centric,” he remarked. The city’s dynamic energy and cultural vibrancy, he argued, make it the perfect backdrop to celebrate the brand’s legacy while embracing a more inclusive global perspective.
The 2026 Spring/Summer collection, unveiled at the Long Museum in Shanghai, was a deliberate fusion of Western elegance and Chinese heritage. Models wore pieces that incorporated elements like knotted silk pankou buttons and side-fastening jackets with standing collars, translating traditional aesthetic codes into modern designs. Cheongsam dresses, once emblematic of Chinese fashion, were reimagined with a minimalist twist, swapping intricate floral silk for pale stretch wool. This approach, Griffiths explained, aimed to create a sophisticated, contemporary interpretation of the classic office staple—body-skimming shift dresses that now bore a distinctly Asian flair.
A delicate dance of cultural homage
Integrating cultural symbols into a luxury collection is a balancing act. Nods to heritage can easily veer into cliché or appropriation if not handled thoughtfully. “We know that it isn’t good enough just to say we didn’t intend to cause offence,” Griffiths said. “So we had lots of conversations and consultations in advance about the designs.” The goal was to honor Chinese traditions without reducing them to mere motifs. “It’s about showing respect through understanding, not just aesthetics,” he added.
Max Mara’s long-standing relationship with China was central to this effort. The brand has been present in the country for 33 years, with 27 boutiques in Shanghai alone. Over time, it has become synonymous with social status and professional success in the minds of Chinese women. This connection made the 2026 collection a significant moment, as it sought to bridge the gap between global luxury and local identity.
As the Chinese luxury market rebounds from the post-pandemic slump, fueled by a rising stock market, European brands are doubling down on cultural initiatives. Chinese consumers now account for about a quarter of the world’s luxury spending, and their tastes are evolving beyond traditional Western influences. Brands that treat this appetite as an endless resource are finding themselves at a disadvantage. Instead, the focus is on creating collections that resonate with Chinese cultural narratives—especially the rise of guochao, or “national wave,” which has become a defining trend in the region’s fashion landscape.
The guochao phenomenon: A shift in consumer identity
Guochao is more than a fleeting trend; it represents a generational shift in how Chinese consumers define their style. Unlike nostalgia-driven patriotism, it is a forward-thinking movement that aligns fashion with cultural pride and personal expression. This phenomenon reflects the broader instinct of Gen Z to prioritize their own experiences, as seen in the global rise of indigenous and heritage-inspired aesthetics. For Max Mara, guochao symbolizes the empowerment of Chinese women, a group that has increasingly become the driving force behind luxury consumption.
The brand’s 2026 collection was a direct response to this cultural shift. By featuring predominantly local models and incorporating elements like the cheongsam, Max Mara positioned itself as an ally to China’s evolving fashion sensibilities. The casting choices underscored this commitment, with the Chinese-American Olympic skier Eileen Gu standing out as a front-row star. Her presence highlighted the brand’s desire to connect with a diverse, culturally conscious audience.
Griffiths emphasized that the collection was not a nostalgic nod but a strategic homage to the enduring relevance of Chinese culture in the global luxury sphere. “We wanted to show that Max Mara is not just a brand for the West—it’s a brand for the world,” he said. This philosophy was evident in the design choices, which blended traditional elements with modern minimalism to create a timeless yet contemporary aesthetic.
Historical inspiration and global resonance
While the 2026 collection drew heavily from Chinese influences, it also reflected Max Mara’s broader historical narrative. The brand’s recent catwalk shows have been inspired by figures like 18th-century physicist Émilie du Châtelet and medieval military strategist Matilde di Canossa, weaving esoteric feminist history into its visual storytelling. This approach, Griffiths noted, was part of a larger effort to position Max Mara as a brand that speaks to both global and local values.
The integration of Chinese elements into the collection was also a deliberate choice to align with the brand’s image as a symbol of sophistication and confidence. “The spirit of guochao is self-assurance,” Griffiths said. “It’s about women choosing their own style, their own identity, and their own narrative.” This sentiment was echoed in the show’s design, which combined traditional silhouettes with modern fabrics, creating a dialogue between past and present.
The use of red in the collection was another key detail, tapping into its cultural significance. In China, red represents joy, luck, and vitality—qualities that the designer saw as integral to the brand’s identity. “There is something so primal about red,” Griffiths noted backstage. “I think of it as the pre-eminent non-neutral colour. It’s almost a neutral, really.” While the color was a powerful statement, he clarified it wasn’t a seasonal trend but a reflection of deeper cultural values.
Max Mara’s strategy for China has evolved over the years. The brand’s 2026 show was part of a broader campaign to engage with the region’s growing influence in the global fashion market. By collaborating with a Chinese production of Suzie Miller’s play *Prima Facie*, the brand positioned itself alongside a global cultural phenomenon, using its visual language to support themes of gender and empowerment. This partnership underscored Max Mara’s commitment to aligning its brand with the values of its Chinese audience.
Griffiths acknowledged that there was once a perception of Max Mara as a brand that was “safe and dependable, but maybe a bit dusty and boring.” However, the 2026 collection aimed to dispel that notion. “There are no trends any more,” he said. “Fashion doesn’t dictate any more. Everyone chooses their own look.” This shift in perspective marks a turning point for the brand, as it continues to navigate the complexities of cultural integration while staying true to its heritage and evolving identity. In doing so, Max Mara not only honors its roots but also positions itself as a leader in the new era of global luxury fashion.